Olluco: the Set Menu

Returning to Olluco restaurant Moscow for a second visit felt a bit like stepping into a parallel universe—familiar yet filled with new wonders to discover. My first experience was already captivating enough to make me yearn for more, but when I glimpsed the new set menu they were offering, I simply couldn’t resist. This time, I brought along the lovely Tatiana, whose enthusiasm for all things seafood far surpasses my own. If anyone were going to offer the most insightful opinion on octopus or sea urchin, it would be her.

On my previous visit, we were seated in the bar area, spellbound by a mesmerizing LED ceiling that cycled through vivid rainforest and oceanic imagery. By contrast, this second visit placed us in a magnificent room defined by its luxurious materials—polished granite floors, exotic hardwood tables, and walls composed of deeply veined orange-toned granite. The lighting here was artfully designed, highlighting the dramatic swirls of stone and lending a soft, welcoming glow to every corner of the room. Everything seemed meticulously chosen to create a sense of both grandeur and comfort, there the gentle dancing of flames in the long, thin fireplace stretching across the restaurant’s flickering over the glass and wood surfaces.

Near the center of the room stood a massive granite island filled with ice, where wine and spirits were elegantly displayed—a show-stopping feature that also served a practical purpose: keeping the evening’s beverages perfectly chilled. I noticed only one large table in the distance, presumably reserved for big groups or special celebrations, while the remaining tables—mostly configured for three or four guests—added a layer of intimacy to the setting. It felt like the ideal venue for a quiet date night, a romantic dinner, or in our case, a culinary adventure shared between two inquisitive palates.

Tatiana immediately commented on how the environment struck a balance between earthy strength and refined design. The granite walls, veined in streaks of rust and gold, glowed under the carefully placed lights, and the fireplace radiated the kind of gentle warmth that made you want to linger a little longer. She was quick to note how conducive the ambiance was to savoring a long meal. I couldn’t help but agree; if Olluco’s aim is to transport diners out of the city’s bustle and into a realm of elevated Peruvian-inspired creativity, the setting alone accomplishes half of that journey right from the start.

As we settled in, the staff—still brimming with the same genuine warmth and impeccable professionalism I remembered—welcomed us with knowing smiles. They could tell we were here with heightened expectations, especially after having raved about our first experience. When the time came for the unveiling of the set menu, Tatiana and I exchanged excited glances. This was the moment I’d been looking forward to ever since I first heard whispers about Chef Nicanor Veira’s newest culinary odyssey, and I knew Tatiana’s adventurous spirit would add another dimension to the delights soon to come.

Here is a breakdown of the menu’s nine courses, each an homage to a different region of Peru; each using the finest complementary ingredients from Russia—and each a masterpiece in its own right:

1. COASTLINE

Scallop, Oyster, Kombu, Borage, Seaweeds, Kaffir Lime

The journey begins at the ocean’s edge, where briny oyster and sweet scallop mingle with gently salted seaweeds. The borage imparts a subtle, herbal brightness, while the kombu adds an undercurrent of savory richness. A final touch of kaffir lime zest delivers a fragrant burst of citrus that lifts every bite. It’s like tasting the sea breeze at dawn: fresh, invigorating, and full of possibilities.

2. RED ROCKS

Sea Urchin, Carabinero, Lime, King Crab, Nori

Continuing our path along rugged coastal terrain, this course dives deeper into the ocean’s depths. Pillowy scoops of sea urchin resonate with intense umami, matched by the sweet succulence of carabinero prawn. King crab, delicately extracted, provides tenderness that contrasts the crisp nori wrapper. A hint of lime cuts through the richness, leaving the palate awakened, as if standing on red cliffs overlooking the Pacific.

3. BOREAL FOREST

Deer, Mushrooms, Carob Tree

From the sea, we pivot to the mysterious hush of a shaded woodland. Tender venison draws out the essence of the forest—earthy, velvety, and faintly sweet. Wild mushrooms of varying textures—perhaps seared, pickled, or lightly marinated—heighten the flavors with a faint whisper of loam and pine. Carob tree elements weave in a subtle, chocolaty note, rounding the dish with a lightly sweet, almost nutty warmth reminiscent of campfire smoke on a chilly night.

4. RAINFOREST

Duck, Caviar, Bahuaja Nut, Cacao, Yuca, Yogurt

Next, we enter a lush green realm of flora and fauna. Succulent duck is cooked to rosy perfection, while a spoonful of caviar pops brininess against its rich meat. The Bahuaja nut—rare and crunchy—adds an unexpected layer of tropical intrigue. Specks of cacao nod to the rainforest’s famed bean; bitter-sweet notes that gently echo the earthiness of the duck. Meanwhile, smooth yuca purée and a tangy yogurt sauce keep the dish light, weaving a tapestry of flavors reminiscent of the humid, life-filled depths of the Amazon rainforest.

5. CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

Cray Fish, Lettuce, Rocoto Aji

Rising above the rainforest, we reach the heart of mountain life. Sweet cray fish (crawfish) stands at the center, its tenderness amplified by a crisp green lettuce preparation—perhaps a simple chiffonade or lightly dressed leaves. Then comes the rocoto aji, a hallmark of Peruvian spice, lending bright heat that never overwhelms but instead ignites the palate. It’s a course that symbolizes the balance between lush farmland produce and the vibrant peppers that define Andean cooking.

6. PACIFIC OCEAN

Octopus, Tamarind, Ocean Plants

We return to the shores for a second encounter with maritime wonders. Here, octopus is often grilled or slow-cooked to coax out its natural sweetness, while tamarind adds a tangy, tropical zing—like a citrusy caramel. Ocean plants—tender sea greens, perhaps samphire or sea lettuce—lend salty freshness. The combination is deeply comforting, a reminder of a tranquil beach at dusk, waves gently lapping on a black-sand shore.

7. ANDES

Short Rib, Huacatay, Yellow Aji, Roots

Rising to the highest peaks, this course pays homage to traditional highland ingredients. The short rib, braised until it’s fall-apart tender, resonates with the distinct aroma of huacatay—a Peruvian herb with flavors akin to mint, basil, and tarragon combined. Yellow aji provides bright color and a mild, fruity heat. A medley of roots—think purple potatoes, oca, or golden beets—amplifies the Andean theme, grounding the dish with earthy sweetness. It’s comfort food reimagined at Michelin-star level.

8. HIGH JUNGLE

Citrus Fruits, Physalis, Caña Mater

Venturing into the transitional zone between cloud forest and mountainous jungle, this refreshing interlude highlights the region’s signature produce. Tangy citrus fruits mingle with sweet-tart physalis (also known as goldenberry). A drizzle or infusion of caña mater—a mysterious local cane or herbal infusion—brings gentle warmth and a faintly floral undertone. The result is an invigorating palate cleanser that’s both exotic and familiar, capturing the essence of the high jungle’s hidden groves.

9. AMAZON

Chuncho Cacao, Lucuma, Tonka Bean

The grand finale takes us straight to the heart of the Amazon’s cacao heritage. Silky chuncho cacao forms the decadent base—a multi-layered chocolate that boasts both fruity and floral nuances. Lucuma, a beloved Peruvian fruit, adds a caramel-like creaminess that elevates the cocoa’s intensity. Tonka bean sprinkles in an aromatic, almond-vanilla note, tying the dessert together with a perfume of tropical indulgence. It’s a sweet goodbye that captures the depth and mystery of the world’s largest rainforest.

Chef’s Vision: A Culinary Expedition

Despite each course looking delicate in size, I initially worried I might leave wanting more. Little did I know how deceptive these “small” plates could be. Each was packed with layers of flavor and carefully curated ingredients—so much so that by the time I reached the fifth course, I was already feeling thoroughly satisfied. Chef Nicanor Veira seems to have mastered the art of creating portion sizes that allow you to savor each nuanced element without ever feeling shortchanged. It’s a rare balance in fine dining, where showmanship can sometimes overshadow actual sustenance.

Adding to the delight was an unexpected star: the bread. Served warm, it arrived with a crust so thin and crisp that it practically shattered like an eggshell at the slightest touch. Beneath that fragile exterior lay the softest, fluffiest crumb I have ever encountered—rich with flavor and just a hint of sweetness, as if crafted specifically to heighten the enjoyment of each following bite. It felt almost like a course unto itself, a small masterpiece that proved how even the simplest staple can become a moment of transcendent indulgence in the right hands.

By the end of the evening, it was clear that Olluco had once again surpassed my expectations. Their ability to transport diners through a mosaic of Peruvian-inspired landscapes—while simultaneously providing a feast both visually and gastronomically fulfilling—is a testament to the restaurant’s unwavering dedication to excellence. Leaving the restaurant with Tatiana at my side, I found myself reflecting on just how fulfilling this culinary odyssey had been, and how the attention to detail in every element—from the bread to the final sweet flourish—was a true hallmark of refined dining. It’s an experience that left me not only full, but filled with the kind of happiness that only comes from a meal well worth savoring.

Summary: Our Highest Recommendation

From the breathtaking atmosphere of polished granite and exotic hardwoods, to the flawless service and boundary-pushing culinary creativity, Olluco impresses on every level. For anyone seeking a dining adventure that transcends expectations, Olluco earns our most enthusiastic endorsement. It’s a gastronomic journey we’d wholeheartedly repeat at every opportunity.